A strong one-piece, emphasized by the diagonal cropped sleeves from the hand of Cushnie et Ochs. The sisters set their focus on material instead of shape and that resulted in a clean line of firm, rubberized and dense fabrics. 3.1 Phillip Lim explored the world of punk through a mix-up of leathers and the classic pinstripe suit. That far connotation with Kurt's Nirvana increased when seeing the glasses. They are nor white nor oval, but clearly inspired by the raw 'fuck you-mentality' mixed with a hint of joy and experimentation. Last in row is the graduation project of Hwan Sung, presented by the prestigious Central Saint Martins. He turns his models in modern angels by putting a ballet tutu on top of the all-white outfits. Interesting vision on layering.
Yes to the perception of bare skin, yes to the crumpled green plastics, yes to the hints of raw denim. Hernandez Cornet's show was in many ways innovative. It was not about that vertical stripe that replaced a row of buttons, or the 'new suit' that was presented. For me, it was the moment of clarity that fashion is not always about putting it all in one design, just as that old saying 'less is more' is still relevant today.
Lacoste surprised me in very many ways. It shook off their classic polo's, cheesy crocodile and dusty image. Sports re-innovated, taking risk. Highlights were the complete mint-green suit, including gloves in the same colour, and the semi-transparent layer on top of the digital printed dress. On the other end of the pastels, in between loads of black and white, there was the show of Proenza Schouler. Slightly inspired by the path of Balenciaga, these two outfits stood out. The wonderful use of lavender ostrich leather in combination with the turtlenecks and diagonal lines, Schouler made it picture perfect again.
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